6 Best Oil Coolers for Motorcycles: Tested Picks to Beat Engine Heat

I’ve been riding and wrenching on bikes for years, and nothing sneaks up on you quite like heat. You’re stuck in traffic on a July afternoon, your air-cooled twin is ticking like a time bomb, and you can feel the engine cooking your thighs. That’s when I first got serious about oil temperature.

Oil is the lifeblood of any engine, and when it gets too hot it thins out and stops protecting what it should. A good aftermarket cooler can drop oil temps by a meaningful margin and make the bike happier on long rides, track days, and hot commutes.

In this guide I’ll walk you through the six oil coolers I’d actually put on my own bike. I’ll also cover how to size one, how to plumb it safely, and what mistakes to avoid.

Do You Actually Need an Oil Cooler?

Let me be honest: plenty of bikes don’t need one. Many modern liquid-cooled engines already have a factory oil-to-water heat exchanger that does a fine job.

But if you ride an air-cooled engine, tour with a passenger and luggage, or push hard on track days, an auxiliary cooler can be a real upgrade. I’ve also seen big benefits on bikes with tuned engines making more power than the factory cooling was designed for.

Signs Your Oil Is Running Too Hot

• Oil temps climbing past 120 to 130°C (250 to 265°F) in normal riding
• Thin, dark oil shortly after a change
• Noticeable power fade or increased mechanical noise on hot days
• Visible oil consumption or smoking after long, hot rides

If any of those sound familiar, keep reading. And whichever cooler you choose, pair it with a quality lubricant. I’ve covered my thoughts on the best engine oil for motorcycle use if you need a starting point.

1. Setrab ProLine Oil Cooler — Best Overall

If I had to pick one cooler and never look back, it would be the Setrab ProLine. Setrab is a Swedish company with a long motorsport pedigree, and you can feel it in the quality of the core.

The ProLine uses a stacked-plate aluminum design with a robust, brazed construction. It’s available in several row counts, and the 13-row version is the one I’d recommend for most hot-running street and track bikes.

Why I Like It

The ProLine’s internal turbulence design keeps oil moving through the plates for efficient heat transfer without choking flow. In my experience, it holds up to vibration and road debris far better than cheap generic coolers.

It typically comes with threaded ports that accept AN fittings or metric adapters, so you can match it to quality braided hoses. Expect to pay roughly $100 to $200 for the core alone, depending on size and port options.

Things to Consider

It’s a bare core, so you’ll need to buy hoses, fittings, and a mounting solution separately. That’s more work, but it also means you can build it exactly to fit your bike.

I’d also add a thermostat. A 13-row Setrab without one can overcool the oil during winter commutes.

2. Mocal 13-Row Oil Cooler Kit with Thermostatic Sandwich Plate — Best Complete Kit

Mocal is a British brand that’s been making oil cooling parts for decades, and its 13-row oil cooler kit is where I send friends who want a no-fuss solution. Everything you need is in the box.

The kit generally includes the aluminum cooler core, braided stainless hoses with AN-style fittings, and Mocal’s thermostatic sandwich plate. That plate sits between the filter and the engine and only routes oil to the cooler once it reaches operating temperature.

Why It Works

The thermostat is the star here. It keeps the engine warming up quickly, then opens to the cooler at about 80°C (176°F), so you get cooling when you need it and not when you don’t.

Kits like this usually run about $180 to $300, which is a fair price considering you’re getting hoses and the thermostat. I found it a lot cheaper than piecing together separate parts of the same quality.

What to Watch For

You’ll need to confirm the sandwich plate thread size matches your oil filter mount. Mocal offers several thread options, so check your bike’s spec before ordering.

Mounting brackets are also sometimes basic. I usually make or buy a sturdier bracket for rough road use.

3. Earl’s Performance UltraPro Oil Cooler — Best for Track Days

Earl’s Performance has been a household name in racing plumbing for years. Its UltraPro oil cooler is a stacked-plate design aimed at drag, circuit, and street-performance use.

What stands out to me is the quality of the finish and the straightforward AN-style port options. If you already run Earl’s braided lines or fittings, this cooler slots into that ecosystem nicely.

Real-World Impressions

The UltraPro handles sustained high-load heat well, and that’s exactly what you want on a track day. When I’m doing back-to-back sessions in summer, I want a core that doesn’t heat soak quickly.

Pricing generally sits in the $90 to $180 range depending on the size. That makes it a good middle ground between budget cores and premium race parts.

Downsides

It’s a universal part, so there’s no bike-specific bracket or hose set. Plan on spending a bit of time on fabrication and routing.

4. Jagg Oil Cooler Kit for Harley-Davidson — Best for Harley Riders

If you ride a Harley, especially a big twin that bakes in summer traffic, I’d look at Jagg Oil Cooler kits. Jagg has been building Harley-specific cooling parts for a long time, and their kits are made to bolt on with minimal hassle.

Their kits typically include a finned or plate-style cooler, lines, and a mount designed for specific Harley frames. Some options include fan assistance, which I find incredibly helpful in stop-and-go riding.

Why It Stands Out

With a universal cooler, you spend a weekend figuring out where it fits. With a Jagg kit, much of that thinking is done for you, and the look is clean enough that it doesn’t ruin the bike’s lines.

Prices vary by model and whether the kit is fan-assisted, but expect roughly $250 to $500. Always check exact fitment for your model and year before ordering.

Keep in Mind

Fan-assisted versions add wiring, which means a bit more work and a small electrical load. If you ride mostly on the highway, the non-fan version is probably enough.

5. Setrab Slimline Oil Cooler — Best for Tight Fairings

Not every bike has room for a big core. On sport bikes with tight fairings, I like the Setrab Slimline, which is thinner than the ProLine but still efficient.

It’s built from the same quality aluminum as its bigger siblings and is designed for situations where space is limited. That makes it a good fit behind a lower fairing or beside the radiator.

Strengths

The slim profile lets you tuck it into places a thicker cooler simply won’t go. In my experience, even a modest-size cooler placed in clean airflow beats a huge one buried behind bodywork.

Expect to spend around $90 to $160, depending on length and fittings.

Limitations

A slim core has less total cooling capacity than a thick 13-row. For heavy touring or desert heat, I’d step up to a larger unit.

6. Derale Dyno-Cool Stacked Plate Oil Cooler — Best Budget-Friendly Option

If you’re watching the wallet, Derale makes some of the more affordable stacked-plate coolers from a reputable US brand. Their Dyno-Cool line is widely available and easy to source.

It’s a universal design, so it takes some planning, but the aluminum construction and straightforward fittings make installation easy for anyone comfortable with a wrench.

Where It Shines

For a lightly modified street bike or a weekend cruiser, it’s often all you need. I’ve seen riders get meaningful temperature drops without spending premium prices.

Pricing is typically in the $60 to $120 range. For the money, it’s tough to beat.

Trade-Offs

It doesn’t have the race-bred finish of Setrab or the all-in-one convenience of Mocal. Take extra care with hose quality and clamps, because that’s where cheaper installs tend to fail.

How to Choose the Right Oil Cooler for Your Bike

Picking the right cooler comes down to matching it to your riding, not just buying the biggest core you can find. Here’s how I decide.

Size and Row Count

For most street bikes, 10 to 13 rows is plenty. Track bikes and big air-cooled twins can justify more, but bigger isn’t always better.

An oversized core can overcool the oil. Oil needs to get hot enough to boil off moisture and fuel dilution, so I always aim for a stable operating temperature rather than the coldest possible oil.

Thermostat or No Thermostat?

My rule is simple: if you ride in changing temperatures, use a thermostat. It’s cheap insurance, and it keeps short commutes from leaving moisture in your oil.

Track-only bikes in consistently hot conditions can sometimes skip it, but I still prefer having one.

Hoses and Fittings

Don’t skimp here. A great cooler with poor hoses is a leak waiting to happen. I use braided stainless hoses with quality AN fittings, and I route them away from exhaust headers and sharp edges.

Mounting Location

Airflow is everything. A cooler needs a steady stream of clean air, so mount it where air actually passes through, such as in front of the engine or beside the radiator.

Avoid spots where the cooler is shielded by the front wheel or sits in the radiator’s hot exhaust air.

Installation Tips From My Garage

I’ve installed a handful of these, and a few lessons stick with me. First, plan your hose routing before you cut anything.

Second, never over-tighten AN fittings. They seal by flare, not by thread torque. Third, prime the system by topping up oil and running the engine briefly, then recheck the level because the cooler and lines hold extra oil.

A Quick Checklist

• Warm the engine and drain the oil before starting
• Fit the sandwich plate with a fresh filter and lightly oiled gasket
• Secure hoses with P-clamps and keep them away from heat and moving parts
• Fill with fresh oil and check for leaks after the first run
• Re-inspect everything after your first 100 miles

Don’t Forget the Oil Itself

A cooler helps the oil survive, but the oil still has to do its job. Choosing the right viscosity and quality matters, especially for bikes that run hot.

If you’re not sure where to start, I’ve put together a guide to the best motor oil for 4 stroke motorcycle engines. I also like this breakdown of the top engine oil for 4 stroke motorcycle options if you want more detail.

Riders in warmer climates might find this rundown of the best engine oil for 4 stroke motorcycle in india useful, since heat is a constant factor there. And if you’re still asking what is the best engine oil for 4 stroke motorcycle use, that guide covers the basics well.

Common Mistakes I See Riders Make

Buying the Biggest Cooler Available

More rows don’t automatically mean better results. Oversized coolers without thermostats can leave oil too cold.

Using Cheap Hoses

Rubber hoses that aren’t rated for oil temperature and pressure can burst or soften. Always use properly rated lines.

Ignoring Airflow

If air can’t reach the cooler, it won’t cool much. Location matters more than most people think.

Forgetting to Recheck Oil Level

The cooler and hoses add volume. Check the level after the first heat cycle and top up as needed.

Final Thoughts

For most riders, my advice is simple: choose a quality core, add a thermostat, and install it carefully. The Setrab ProLine is my top overall pick, while the Mocal 13-row kit is the easiest way to get a complete setup.

Harley owners should take a hard look at Jagg, and anyone on a budget can do well with the Derale Dyno-Cool. Whatever you choose, always confirm fitment for your specific bike before ordering.

A cooler engine is a happier engine, and a happier engine means more miles of fun for you. Ride safe, and keep that oil in its happy zone.

Frequently Asked Questions