Best Tires for a 1999 Yamaha Road Star: My Top Picks, Sizes, and Buying Tips

I’ve spent a lot of time around Yamaha’s big air-and-oil-cooled cruisers, and the 1999 Road Star is one of those bikes that rewards a little attention. That 1602cc V-twin has a pile of torque, and the whole machine weighs well over 700 pounds once you add fuel and gear. Your tires carry all of that, so choosing them well is not a small decision.

If you’re staring at cracked sidewalls or a squared-off rear tire, I get it. The options are confusing, and a lot of forum advice contradicts itself. Here’s how I’d approach the choice, which tires I’d actually put on my own bike, and what I’d do to make them last.

Start With the Right Sizes

Before you shop, get your sizes straight. On a 1999 Road Star, the factory fitment is generally a 130/70-18 up front and a 150/80-16 out back. The rear is often written as 150/80B16, where the “B” indicates a bias-belted construction.

I always tell people to read the sidewall of the tire that’s currently on the bike. Previous owners sometimes change sizes, and a mismatched rear can affect clearance, handling, and even speedometer accuracy. Your owner’s manual is the final word.

Check Your Wheel Type

Look closely at your wheels. Some cruisers from this era use spoked wheels that may require tubes, while others run tubeless setups. Buying the wrong construction wastes money and creates a real safety issue.

If you can’t tell, ask a reputable shop or the tire retailer’s fitment team. It takes five minutes and can save you a very bad afternoon.

What I Look for in a Cruiser Tire

A heavy cruiser wants a different tire than a lightweight sportbike. I judge a Road Star tire on four things: load capacity, mileage, wet grip, and how it feels when the bike leans into a corner.

Straight-line stability is the other big one. The Road Star has a long wheelbase and a relaxed rake, so I want a tire that tracks smoothly without making the steering feel heavy or twitchy.

Compound and Mileage

Harder compounds last longer but give up a bit of grip, especially in cold or wet conditions. Softer compounds feel better in corners but wear faster, and a 1600cc twin is hard on rear rubber.

For most riders, a dual-compound or mid-hardness tire is the happy medium. I’d rather give up a little mileage than feel the rear step out on a damp on-ramp.

Age Is the Silent Killer

Rubber hardens and cracks over time, even when the bike sits in a garage. Look for the four-digit DOT code on the sidewall, where the first two digits are the week and the last two are the year.

If a tire is more than about six years old, I treat it as due for replacement regardless of tread depth. An older Road Star that has been sitting is the classic case where tread looks fine but the rubber is rock hard.

My Top Tire Picks for This Bike

Here are the tires I’d seriously consider, in the order I’d reach for them. Availability varies by size, so confirm your exact fitment before you buy.

My Overall Pick: Michelin Commander II

If I had to choose one set and never think about it again, I’d go with the Michelin Commander II. It offers a great balance of grip, wet-weather confidence, and long life. It also feels planted and predictable on a heavy bike.

I like how it turns in without fuss and how quietly it rolls on the highway. It costs more than budget options, but I consider it money well spent. If you want to explore the brand further, I’ve also covered the best micheline sport tire for motorcycle for riders who like that style of rubber.

Best for Mileage: Dunlop Cruisemax or D404-Style Setups

Dunlop has a long history with cruisers, and its touring-oriented tires tend to deliver strong mileage. If you rack up long highway days, a Dunlop rear is a smart choice.

The trade-off is that some riders find the feel slightly less lively than Michelin in tight turns. For me, the longevity wins when I’m doing big-mile trips.

Best for Confident Handling: Metzeler ME 888 Marathon Ultra

The Metzeler ME 888 Marathon Ultra is a favorite among riders who like precision. It handles transitions well and gives good feedback, which is a nice feeling on a bike this large.

It tends to be pricier, and mileage is respectable rather than spectacular. I’d choose it if I ride a lot of winding roads and care more about feel than squeezing out every last mile.

Best Value: Shinko 777 HD

If budget is tight, the Shinko 777 HD is a popular choice. It’s affordable, comes in cruiser-friendly sizes, and is a fair step up from riding on worn-out rubber.

I wouldn’t call it the top performer in the rain or at the limit. But for a commuter or weekend rider who rides sensibly, it can be a very reasonable choice.

Other Options Worth a Look

Bridgestone’s Exedra line and the Avon Cobra family are also worth checking if they’re available in your size. Both have loyal followings among cruiser riders.

I’d compare current reviews and availability, since tire lineups change over time. A tire that was easy to find a few years ago may be discontinued or replaced.

Matching Tires to the Way You Ride

The “best” tire depends on you. A rider who tours two-up with luggage has different needs from someone who putters around town on Sundays.

If You Ride in the Rain

Wet-weather grip is a big deal on a heavy bike, because braking distances stretch out fast. I favor tires with deep, well-designed siping and a compound that stays pliable when it’s cold and damp.

If wet roads are a regular part of your life, check out my guide to the best motorcycle tire for wet roads. The principles there apply well to a cruiser like the Road Star.

If You Ride Two-Up or Loaded

Carrying a passenger and saddlebags raises the load on the rear tire significantly. Look at the load index on any tire you’re considering and make sure it comfortably covers your typical weight.

I’d also bump my pressure as recommended in the manual when loaded. Underinflation on a heavy cruiser creates heat, wear, and sloppy handling.

If You’re Chasing Something Wilder

Some riders get creative with their cruisers, and I respect the spirit. But a Road Star is not built for dirt, and I wouldn’t recommend aggressive off-road rubber on it.

If you’re curious about how serious off-road tires differ, I wrote about the best motorcycle tire for desert racing. It’s a useful contrast, and it shows why street cruisers need a very different design.

Installation and Setup Matter as Much as the Tire

A great tire installed poorly is still a bad tire. I’ve seen riders spend good money on premium rubber and then skip balancing, which leads to vibration and uneven wear.

Take the time to do it right, whether you do it yourself or pay a shop.

Balance Every Time

Balancing smooths out the ride and protects your bearings and suspension. If you wrench at home, a quality tool makes a real difference, and I put together a guide to the best tire balancer for motorcycle if you want to do it yourself.

Otherwise, a shop can balance a wheel quickly and affordably. Either way, I wouldn’t skip it.

Set Pressure Correctly

Check the pressure on the swingarm sticker or in your manual, and always measure when the tires are cold. Pressure drifts as temperatures change, so I check mine at least every couple of weeks.

Proper pressure improves mileage, handling, and safety. It’s the cheapest tire upgrade you’ll ever make.

Break In Your New Tires

New tires come with a slick mold-release coating that needs to wear off. I ride gently for the first 100 miles or so, avoiding hard braking and aggressive lean angles.

It’s tempting to test the new grip right away, but patience pays off. Once the surface scuffs in, the tire performs the way it was designed to.

Keep a Repair Kit in Your Saddlebag

Even the best tire can pick up a nail. I never leave on a long ride without a basic puncture plan, and that starts with a compact kit and a small inflator.

If you want recommendations, my roundup of the best tire repair kit for motorcycle covers what I’d pack. Remember that a plug is a temporary fix to get you home, and a professional should evaluate the tire afterward.

When It’s Time to Replace Your Tires

Don’t wait until the wear bars are showing. I replace my tires when I notice any of the following warning signs.

• Tread at or near the wear indicators on the rear or front tire.
• Cracking or dry rot in the sidewalls or between the tread blocks.
• Visible flat spots from highway riding, which make the bike feel unstable in turns.
• Bulges, cuts, or embedded objects that could cause sudden failure.
• Age beyond roughly six years, even if the tire looks fine.

Treat any of these as a stop sign. Tires are the only thing connecting a 700-plus pound motorcycle to the road, so I don’t gamble with them.

Common Mistakes I See Riders Make

The first is buying purely on price. A cheap tire isn’t automatically bad, but a mismatched or mediocre one on a heavy bike can cost you in safety and replacement frequency.

The second is ignoring the front. Riders often replace the worn rear and leave an aging front, which can be dangerous because the front does most of the braking. I prefer replacing them as a matched pair when the front is anywhere near the end of its life.

The third is mixing very different tire types front and back. Stick with tires that are designed to work together, ideally from the same manufacturer and product line.

My Final Recommendation

If you want the simple answer, I’d put a pair of Michelin Commander II tires on a 1999 Road Star and enjoy the ride. They’re the best blend of grip, comfort, and longevity I’ve found for this kind of bike.

If mileage is your top priority, go Dunlop. If you want sharper handling, try Metzeler. And if your budget is tight, Shinko can get you rolling safely without wrecking your wallet.

Whatever you choose, confirm your sizes, check the DOT date, and balance the wheels. Do those three things, and your Road Star will reward you with years of smooth, confident riding.

Frequently Asked Questions